After summiting Everest, the world’s highest peak, we returned 10am to South Col. At 3am the night after, a brave group of 4 of us set again and climbed Lhotse, 8,516m the world’s 4th highest peak as well.  The Everest+Lhotse double team: Dean Staples from New Zealand (lead guide and 9x Everest summiter), Ang Gelu Sherpa (4x Everest), me (1x Everest), Rinjit Sherpa (1x Everest).

I believe I’m the first Swede to have done the Everest/Lhotse double (one right after the other), and trying to check this formally with the ministry/Elizabeth Hawley, which may take some time… [If anyone knows of any other Swede who has done this before me, let me know]

The first picture is from the summit of Lhotse, in the morning of May 22, and the second one is from the same afternoon when were back down in Camp 2 – where it was way less windy – Ang Gelu dressed in matching Swedish colors haha!

At 6.15am this morning, I summited Mt Everest!! I think all the dZi Foundation donations to date/planned gave me good karma for Chomolungma to welcome me! Thx!
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Safely arrived in upper Camp 3 @ 7,300m. Sleeping here on ledges on the Lhotse face, before continuing to C4 South Col tomorrow… So far so good…
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Tomorrow night at 1am we’re going up the mountain to start the ascent towards our summit bid! Planning to summit a few days later, when conditions are right!

The best way to cheer me on and show your support is to donate to my charity project! I have done a lot of research to find a charity in dZi Foundation that does great work, with a very high  payout ratio to the actual projects, ie low overhead/friction costs.

Your help and contribution is appreciated!

Thx
Thomas

The last post omitted Jim’s email. Prospective UK donors, email him on jim@dzifoundation.org to indicate your plan to donate, and to be notified when the UK page is up and running.

Thx
Thomas

Dear UK based friends – the bureaucratic hoops in the UK are taking just a little bit longer to jump through, but hopefully the UK specific donation Page shall be up and running soon… Jim Nowak, President of dZi Foundation, ensures me they are on the last steps… Prospective UK donors, please e-mail Jim on jim to tell him you intend to donate, and he will notify you when the page is up and running. Please wait up this page is ready, because then dZi Foundation can get UK “Gift Aid” tax benefits, resulting in 25% more money to the charity, and more resources for our school project!

Thank you,

Thomas

Reinhold Messner, first person to climb Everest without oxygen, in 1978, and first person to climb all 8,000m peaks

He was there with a film crew shooting for Austrian and German TV, and stayed for lunch. Very interesting conversation with this legendary pioneer of a climber. Even though he obviously is on a different wavelength and thinks its not the real thing to climb with these commercial expeditions, he admitted that Chongba’s food was excellent :-) Really nice guy…

Here together with one of our guides: Lydia Bradey, first woman in the world to climb Everest without oxygen

… in EBC for a few more days, waiting for the right weather window for our summit attempt…

We left Camp 2 at 5.30am this morning and made it back to base camp in just over 3 hours.  Now we are done with our acclimatization program and we are now just waiting for the right weather window for our summit bid…!

Exciting – and somewhat unbelievable that next time we’re going up, it’s to go for the summit!